I have a question to anybody out there who is willing to give me some helpful advice. I started climbing last year out here in the Carolina's. I started out top rope and now I have gotting into sport and trad climbing. My biggest downfall is that I don't spend a whole lot of time bouldering to build up finger strength. Being mostly self taught, I am progressively getting better and better with my technique; however V1 and 10a/b overhangs are kicking my ass. I can't seem to build up enough strength in my fingers by doing the hit workouts at the gym on the finger boards. My biggest problem is that I have a hard time holding my body on the wall to make controled moves with small holds like crimpers and small pinchers.

Does anybody have some advise for building up finger strength? Or any good tips on workouts to try? I have tried gripmasters, bouldering twice a week, but either I have platued or I am not getting anywhere here.
posted by:
scott
Charlotte
  • I've found that by just doing it over and over again you'll slowly build up the needed strength. When my regular climbing partner stopped being my partner, I began bouldering -- a LOT. I would climb 2 or 3 times a week. Every time I would push myself to do harder and harder things until I could not climb any more and then come back to it the next time to keep at it. Some projects took me a month to finish, but eventually I got them.

    After all that bouldering, I finally got back to top roping and sport climbing and holy crap did it make a difference! Those challenging 5.10b's were cake and I found myself finishing 5.12's and able to start some 5.13's too!

    All I can say is just keep at it. Keep challenging yourself. The strength will come.
    • I agree with Jovino!

      Another thing you can do to help (or at least what has helped me) is to get a hang board. Mount it somewhere in your home and be sure to hang until you can't anymore every day. I have mine mounted so that I can turn on my fav 30 min. TV program to watch while hanging. I do it until I fall over and over throughout the entire 30 mins. I have noticed a major difference in my finger (and all around) strength since I began this regimen.

      Best!

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